The European Beech Forests- Tour to the Biodiversity Hotspot- Part 4

Hello guys. Hope you all are continuing to stay safe from the deadly Coronavirus outbreak. Yes, it is yet another post starting with the same old lines that I have been mentioning for the past 3 weeks. The viewers safety and wellness is an important concern of this blog. As per the prediction made by the world’s youngest astrologer ( I don’t have time to check his name), this virus will be eliminated from the world by the end of this month. We can keep a little belief in that since many countries are already on the path to recovery and also their preventive measures emerged successive. I don’t want to give a detailed list but the territory of Greenland which reported 11 cases doesn’t have any Covid-19 victims after all the patients recovered from the disease. Australia and South Korea are two countries which have a high recovery rate comparing the number of cases they had reported till now. The World Heritage Day is set to be celebrated this week on 18th and this post can be considered as a special post for the occasion. We covered 16 countries in the last 3 posts on our travel series to the Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests. This will be our final post of the series where we will cover 4 more countries, all of them being visited for the first time on this blog. More interesting fact is that we will be entering France for the first time. So without further delay, let us begin our journey.

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There are 8 forests from France included in the tentative list. Aigoual biological strict reserves comprises of the two biological strict reserves of Ia Breze (110 ha) and Peyrebesse (18 ha). The forest  lies in the  Cevennes mountain, at the South end of the  Pyrenean-Hercynic Beech Region, under Mediterranean climate  influence. Located on summit  position or steep slopes under a wide range of orientation, the reserves are found on granite and slaty rock, from 1120 to 1460 meters above sea level.The reserves are composed of two beech-dominated forest types:-  Sub-Mediterranean  calcicolous  beech  forests  (EUNIS:  G1.675  CORINE Biotopes: 41.175); phytosociological suballiance : Geranio nodosi-Fagenion sylvaticae– Pyreneo-C,vennian acidophilous beech forest or Sub-Atlantic acidophilous beech forests (Gl.672 or G1.622 I 41.171or 41.122); suballiance 1/ici aquifolii-Fagenion sylvaticae. The Chapitre – Petit-Buech biological  strict  reserve is part  of the Gap-Chaudun and des Sauvas State forests. The reserve is located at the south of the Devoluy massif, in the Petit-Buech upper  valley, on steep slopes under a wide range of orientation. Situated  on the south-west end of the Alpine beech forest  region, the reserve spans out at mountain and alpine levels at altitudes of 1250 to 2060 meters above sea level. The reserve is 552 ha wide and composed  of 3 sub-components: the Chapitre  and de Brouas woods constitutes the main core (249 ha half of which are beech-fir  forests); the Viere wood (40 ha) is found 200 meters  away and detached  by a larch wood; the Donnes wood (164 half of which  are beech-fir­ forests) is located 2 Km away and detached  by a municipal wood.The forest comprises two beech-dominated forest types:- Sub-Mediterranean calcicolous  beech  (beech-fir)  forests  (EUNIS:  G1.675  CORINE Biotopes : 41.175); phytosociological suballiance : Geranio nodosi-Fagenion sylvaticae– Middle European   dry-slope   limestone  beech-  ( beech-fir)   forests   (G1.661  41.16); alliance: Cephalantero rubrae-Fagion. The reserve is composed of other natural habitats such as western white oak woods,boulder and slope forests  (lime and maple trees) and mountainous open lands: grasslands and ravines. The Fontainebleau biological strict reserves cluster is part of a large State forest and located 40 Km south­ east of Paris. The 21600 ha State forest of Fontainebleau lies on a wide plateau at the planar altitudinal zone. The altitudes of the forest ranges from 80 to 140 meters above sea level but show high relief and high diversity of substrates (limestone,sandstone and sands). The cluster is composed of 7 reserves with a total surface of 1004 ha. The forest comprises two beech-dominated forest types:- Sub-Atlantic acidophilous   beech   forests   (EUNIS:  G1.622  CORINE Biotopes:  41.122); phytosociological suballiance: Quercenion robori-petraeae– Atlantic neutrophile to calcicolous beech forests from Northern France (G1.632 I 41.132);Carpino­ Fagion alliance.

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Massane and Moixoses reserves form an 855 ha forest ensemble located on the Albera massif, the last link east of the Pyrenees mountain range and overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The forest spans from lowest  part of the norther  slope to the border  crest with  Spain. Altitudes  vary of 200 to 1160 meters above sea level, from meso-Mediterranean to mountain levels. The large altitudinal range produces a very contrasted  climatic conditions  from  humid  Mediterranean climate to mountain hyper-humid Mediterranean climate. 6 forest  types  are identified within the  component, beech is the  dominant species along with  oak woods, lime, maple and alder trees. The beech dominance is particularly notable at the mountain level on 520 hectares depending on two forest types :- Sub-Mediterranean calcicolous  beech (beech-fir) forests  (EUNIS : G1.675 CORINE Biotopes: 41.175); phytosociological suballiance: Geranio nodosi-Fagenion sylvaticae– Pyreneo-C,vennian acidophilous beech forest or Sub-Atlantic acidophilous beech forests (G1.672 or G1.622 41.171 or 41.122) ; phytosociological suballiance : 1/ici aquifolii-Fagenion sylvaticae, uncertainty due to the biogeographic location. The overall forest ensemble  is at least 90 years old and comprises  several hundreds  of large stands from 180 to 300 years old. The Massane reserve covers 180 hectares beech forest unexploited for over 140 years. The massif is located at a biogeographical transition  zone between  Pyrenean and Mediterranean influences. 8119 species originating  from  both biogeographical  regions  have been identified  in the Massane reserve. Massane and Moixoses beech forests evolved from the Catalonia glacial refuge, origin of a postglacial expansion of the Eastern-Pyrenees and Southwestern Massif Central. Py– Pas de Rotja national natural reserve is located on north-facing slopes of the Pyrenean mountain range close to the border  with Spain. It is a mountain beech forest where beech is rather  abundant  at such altitudes (between 1300 and 1800 meters above sea level). The 1SO ha core zone of the component comprises the most mature forest core based of dendrometric data out of 3930 ha of the entire Py natural reserve. This core zone comprises  acidophilous  Pyreneo-C,vennian  acidophilous  beech  forest  (EUNIS : G1.672 CORINE Biotopes 41.171),7S% of pure beech forest and 28% composed of beech, pine, fir, oak and birch trees. Py- Pas de Rotja forest stands in the Mediterranean climate  region with continental influences. Accessibility of the forest is limited  due to steep slopes from 40% to 60%, forest stands are ranging from 100 years to 170 years old. Sainte-Baume biological strict reserve (138 ha, ongoing extension to 49S ha) is located on the north-facing slope of the Sainte-Baume mountain, 1S Km north from Mediterranean shores, at the north end of the Central Mediterranean beech forest region. The reserve lies from  440 to 11SO meters above sea level, beech forest are found from 700 to 1100 meters above sea level. The central part of the reserve (320 ha with extension) is composed of one beech-dominated forest type: Sub-Mediterranean  calcicolous  to neutrophil beech  forest  (EUNIS : G1.67S4 CORINE Biotopes :41.17S4); suballiance: Geranio nodosi-Fagenion sylvaticae. Part of the  whole  forest is dominated  by Holm-oak woodland. Forest stands are over 200 years old.

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Saint-Pe-de-Bigorre biological strict reserve (1010 ha) is located  on the  first  relief  of  the  Pyrenean mountain  range, between 42S and 1400 meters above sea level, on north-facing slopes of the Pibeste mountain, cut by two deep valleys; slopes are very steep and rather inaccessible. The reserve is under Atlantic climate with significant mountain influences, characterized by heavy rainfall (>1800 mml/year) and mildly high average annual temperature. The reserve is covered by one beech-dominated forest type: Pyreneo-Cantabrian neutrophile  beech (or beech-fir) forests (EUNIS : G1.64 CORINE Biotopes : 41.14); suballiance Scillo lilio-hyacinthi-Fagenion sylvaticae. Beech forest is completed by ravine and slope lime woods (Gl.A4 I 41.4).The forest is composed of 100 to 1SO-year-old dense stands with diameters over 90 em. Sylve d’Argenson biological strict reserve (2S79 ha) is part of the vast lowland State forest  of Chize. Located SO Km west from  the  Atlantic Ocean, it stands at the south-west end of the  lowland  beech climatic  area, the climate is atlantic with meridonal influences. The altitude varies from 80 to 100m above sea level on a limestone plateau. The reserve is covered  by one beech-dominated forest type: Atlantic  south-western neutrophile to calcicole beech forests, (EUNIS: G1.64 CORINE Biotopes: 41.14), associated with western white oak woods (G1.71 I 41.71).

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The reserves of Ia Breze and Peyrebesse of ancient forest, which existence is confirmed at least since the 19th century. The protected areas rely on relic forest cores which were acquired by the State during the second half of the 19th century. Both reserves are owned by the State and under the protection status of “Biological strict reserve” (IUCN category Ia). They are part of the National Park of Cevennes. The reserve of Peyrebesse, although of limited size, is remarkable for being protected as strict reserve since 1933. Forest stands have been free of sylvicultural use for over 50 to 100 years and comprise  very large individuals over 150 years old. The absence of fir trees at mountain in the mountain part of the Cevennes show nevertheless the effect of ancient forest management. The forest maturity is demonstrated by the richness in saproxylic species,especially coleoptera. There is no trail within the reserves. A forest road and a hiking trail are found at the border of the Peyrebesse reserve. The protection regime forbids any forest use or sylvicultural intervention, except for both  alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing trails. Mushroom picking is allowed and controlled. Reserves are encompassed by the Aigoual State forest, with  only one management  authority (OfficeNational des Fon ts).Chapitre – Petit-Buech biological strict reserve is owned by the State and under the protection status of “Biological strict reserve” (IUCN category Ia) since 1990. It is composed of ancient forest, which existence is confirmed at least since the early 19th century. The area relies on relic forest cores which were acquired  by the State during the second half of the 19th century. The end of management and sylvicultural use dates to at least 60 to  130 years back. The density  of large  stands, the  wide  natural  presence  of fir-trees  and the  diversity  of  certain  species (saproxylic species) underline  the very little exploitation thus a very high level of naturalness. Game pressure on flora is considered high; high mortality of fir-trees  was detected due to an intense drought episode in 2003. The protection regime forbids any forest use or sylvicultural intervention, except for both alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing two  hiking trails. Fishing is allowed and controlled. The three elements of the reserve are encompassed by forest land that are managed sustainably and pastured. Fontainebleau biological strict reserves cluster are composed of ancient forest, which existence is confirmed  at least since the early 19th century. They are owned by the State and under the protection status of “biological strict reserve” (IUCN category Ia). Of the 7 reserves, 4 are established since 1953 (TIIIaie,Gras Fouteau – Hauteurs de Ia Solie, Chene Brule, Gorge aux Loups) and 3 were  created  in 1990 (Beorlots, Rocher de Ia Combe; Valee Jauberton). The 282 ha relating to the 4 old reserves (respectively: 35 ha, 185 ha, 32 ha and 30 ha) are protected   from  any  sylvicultural  exploitation since  1861, they were first  recognized  as « artistic reserves ». For the remaining 722 ha relating to the latest extensions or new reserves, all exploitation were stopped in the mid-1990s. Due to its peri-urban  situation and its renown,the overall Fontainebleau State forest registers 15 million visitors per year. All reserves are close to a road network. Hiking trails cross or hug the edges of two reserves Gros-Fouteau- Hauteurs de Ia Solie and Chene Brule. Any trespassing outside trails is forbidden. The protection regime forbids  any forest use or sylvicultural intervention, except for both alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing two hiking trails. All 4 old reserves (Tillaie, Gras Fouteau – Hauteurs de Ia Solie, Chene Brule, Gorge aux Loups) are encompassed by State forest, under the same management authority (Office National des Forets).

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Massane  and Moixoses  reserves  are respectively  under  the  protection status  of  “national natural reserve” and “biological forest reserve” (both IUCN category IV). They cover ancient forest, which existence is confirmed at least since the early 19th century. The end of  management and sylvicultural  use dates  to  at  least  60 to  140 years back. The level of naturalness  is characterized  by the  richness of  saproxylic  species, for  instance Osmderma eremita, Rosalia alpina, Cerambyx cerdo, Lucanus cervus. In the Massane forest 634 out of 1766 coleoptera taxa are considered saproxylic (36%).
The protection regime forbids any forest use or sylvicultural  intervention, except for both alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing hiking trails and a forest road located in the upper part of the reserve. Several pasture permits are still effective, bovine forest pasture is allowed and controlled. The overall Py forest is protected since 1953, forest stands are 100 years old in average with old-growth 170 years old patches. Several transhumance trails are used by farmers to cross the forest. Due to very steep slopes, access to the forest is limited  to on hiking trail, a couple of forest roads are passing south of the forest. Last sylvicultural exploitation occurredin 1918. The amount  of  dead wood, 44 m3 per ha, is characteristic of old-growth forests. Other parameters suggest development potential to later maturity stages: the total pool of living timber amounts to 503 m 3 per ha, of which 22% in volume are large to very large stands. The forest hosts a diverse saproxylic fauna with 22 indicator species. Sainte-Baume biological strict reserve is owned by the State, 138 ha are under the protection status of “Biological reserve” (IUCN category IV) since 1973. The ongoing extension will upgrade the protection to “Biological strict reserve” (IUCN category  Ia except  55 ha remaining  of category  IV). It  is composed  of  ancient  forest, which existence is confirmed at least since the early 19th century. This old reserve has been preserved since the Middle  Age due to the presence of a religious sanctuary. It is exceptional for its late maturity,the richness of the understory vegetation  with yew and holly-trees of remarkable  dimensions, the richness of lichens and mushrooms, it constitutes  a major area for the saproxylic entomofauna. Attendance in the forest is high, two hiking trail are crossing the reserve. The protection regime forbids any forest use or sylvicultural intervention, except for both alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing trails. Slight conservation interventions are conducted by the National Forest Office within the “genetic resources conservatory unit” (55ha). The reserve is encompassed by State forest,under the same management authority (Office National des Fonts), other boundaries are protected by natural topography.

Saint-Pe-de-Bigorre biological strict reserve is under undivided co-ownership of the Saint-Pe-de-Bigorre municipality and the State and under the protection status of 11Biological strict reserve” (IUCN category Ia). One fourth of the reserve is composed of ancient forest, which existence is confirmed at least since the early 19th century. The forest was exploited during the 19th century, management in the 20th century focused on forest restoration. The reserve hasn’t been exploited since the 1920s,except for a few parcels in the 1950-GOs. Fir trees scarcity show  former  exploitation  of  the  forest  for  the  production  of  wood  charcoal. Nevertheless, the association of bryophytes, lichens, mushrooms and saproxylic entomofauna confirm continuity of the forest’s character and naturalness. The forest is free of any forest exploitation and pasture exploitation: a rare characteristic on such a wide surface throughout the Pyrenees. A couple of trails,one is authorized as transit for pastoral activities,are passing through the reserve. The remoteness of the reserve and rugged topography make the beech massif barely accessible. The protection  regime forbids any forest use or sylvicultural intervention, except for both alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing trails. Fishing is authorized. Three quarters of the reserve are encompassed by State forest,under the same management authority (Office National des Forets), other boundaries are protected by natural topography. Sylve d Argenson biological strict reserve is owned by the State and under the protection  status of “biological strict reserve” (IUCN category Ia) since 2006. The reserve is formed of ancient forest, which existence is confirmed  at least since the early 19th century. Overall natural characteristics remain low due to the recent stop of forestry use and exploitation in 2000, except for 190 ha that were held free of exploitation since 1994. Low density in large woods is due to an exceptional storm that occurred in 1999. The protection regime forbids any forest use or sylvicultural intervention,except for both alien species fighting and ungulates density regulation strategies as well as for securing forest roads that are closed to public transport. Deer and boar pressure on flora is considered high. One fifth of the perimeter is surrounded by State forest under the same management authority (Office National des Forets),other boundaries are close to agricultural lands.

Due to the long history of high-level protection free-of-sylvicultural use, the biological strict reserves of Ia Breze and Peyrebesse stand out as part of most natural forests throughout  the  Massif Central mountain range. Their biogeographic location is remarkable, at the south end of the Atlantic Hercynic beech forest, situated  on  the  borders  of  three  beech forest  regions: Central European, Atlantic-Hercynic and Mediterranean. The Chapitre – Petit-Buech biological strict reserve is located at the very south-west end of the alpine beech forest region. Beech forests show a very high level of naturalness. The old Fontainebleau reserves are by far the oldest biological strict reserves in France and count among the oldest protected areas worldwide. They demonstrate distinctive features of naturalness and long-lasting protection without  any exploitation (more than 150 years), especially for planar forests. The Massane reserve and the Moixoses reserve are located at the far-east end of the Pyrenean mountain range and the Pyrenean-lberic beech forest region. It brings better climatic diversity and beech genetic diversity representativeness along with the Spanish component of Hayedos de Navarra in this region. Massane and Moixoses forests are one essential link as a testimony of the history of beech persistance for 6000 years,they constitute a sentinel forest of climate change in the meso-Mediterranean context. The Massane forest is probably the best covered protected area in Europe for natural inventories. Py-Pas de Rotja beech forest is a micro-refuge essential for beech conservation in the eastern Pyrenees, it holds with Massane and Moixoses forest the largest beech genetic diversity of the Pyrenean-lberic beech forest region. Located away from the Mediterranean climatic transitional zone, Py-Pas de Rotja constitutes the most central component in the Pyrenean mountain range compared to 3 other components and stands as a centre reservoir away from  components that are exposed to climate change such as Massane and Moixoses beech forests. Like Hayedos de Navarra component, the altitude range offers good adaptability to climate change. Sainte Baume biological strict reserve is a relic forest and served as refuge during the last glacial period. Highly isolated, Saint-Baume beech forest lies 60 Km south to other closest beech forests. Due to its long-lasting preservation Sainte-Baume beech forest is one of the most remarkable for its naturalness in France. Saint-Pe-de-Bigorre reserve is the widest biological strict reserve in the Pyrenees and one the rare reserves free from any pastoral activity on the French slopes of the mountain range; this beech forest has significantly no equivalent in France. Located at the middle of the Pyrenean mountain range, Atlantic influences imprint  a  climatic and biogeographic context different to the other components in the Pyrenean-lberic beech forest region. The forest shows a high and increasing level of naturalness confirmed by the richness in several groups. Sylve d’Argenson biological strict reserve is located at the western end of the beech distribution area, at the far southern limit of the Atlantic beech forest region. Lowland beech forests are considered as “outpost” and very sensitive to climate change. It is today, the largest forest strict reserve in metropolitan France.

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Well, that was a lot to cover within France itself. Now, we are going to cover a small portion in a country which many of you might not have even heard of. Let us move to North Macedonia. In the canyon above the village Zuznje on limestone stone is the beech forest which is very hard to reach named Beech Forest Dlaboka Reka (Deep river)- Mavrovo National Park. The forest has very rich biodiversity and due to that fact evaluated by different experts it is pronounced as strict protected area even in the previous period, during ex Yugoslavia time. Thanks to it’s very hard terrain, as one of the reasons for having this state at the moment, human had no entrance in the forest and it can be declared as a virgin beech forest. This was proposed within the project “Strengthening of ecological, institutional and financial sustainability of the protected area system in Republic of Macedonia”, project activity “Development of representative network of protected areas” (MES, 2011). This strict protected area is about 1800 ha represents the most important and the most beautiful part of the National Park. It is a complex of geological, relief, hydrography’s, floristic and landscape amenities. The area that should be nominated as natural property is about 164,5 ha and about 200 buffer zone. Soil and climate here are favourable for beech forests which occupy the vast territories at elevation 1400-1.900 m above sea level. The forest associations which are part of this natural property are Ass. CalaminthagrandifloraeFagetumEm and Abieti-FagetummacedonicumEm. The initiation for nominating this beech forest as natural heritage is according to credible and truthful information of scientific work and it is fully supported by the PI National Park Mavrovo, and by the local community Mavrovo-Rostushe. The beech forest in the Dlaboka Reka are an excellent example from subalpine Beech forest ecosystem forming the timberline and are exposed to natural disturbance by avalanches. The occurrence of Abiesborisii-regis as an endemic tree species in the Balkan regions underpins the character of a glacial refuge area.

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Now, let us move to the next forest in the list. From North Macedonia, we are moving northwards to the old Yugoslavian country of Montenegro. Virgin Forest Reserve is a part of National Park Biogradska Gora, located in the central part of the mountain massif of Bjelasica. Total area of NP Biogradska Gora is 5650 ha, and the surface of the Reserve is 2400 ha. The Reserve in Biogradska Gora is the first designated protected area in Montenegro, having been designated 140 years ago.  It is the area which represents an ecological entity characterized by spontaneous development of well-conserved autochthonous representative primeval beech vegetation, and with a high number of exceptional beech specimens of trees up to 200 years old.The most important forest types of pure or mixed beech vegetation in the Reserve are:

  1. Beech and mountain maple (Fageto-Aceretum visianii)
  2. Beech and nuts (Asyneumo-Fagetum moesiacae)
  3. Fir and beech (Abieto-Fagetum moesiaceae)
  4. Beech and Elymus sp. that connects beech with fir forests (Elymo-Fagetum moesiacae)
  5. Seslerio-Fagetum moesiaceae.

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Virgin Forest Reserve in National Park Biogradska Gora is one of the last European virgin forests. This is the most impressive part of the National Park, surface of 2400 ha, where the strict protection system has been established. Virgin Forest Reserve in Biogradska Gora is characterized by its uniqueness as an area that has been protected 140 years ago. This Reserve represents a unique example of the evolution of different forest communities as a significant part of the genetic legacy of the Earth and important evidence of the specific history and evolution of the living and non-living world of the Tertiary, from Ice Age up to the present day. Virgin Forest Reserve is characterized by different types of trees and shrub species (over 86) as well as the 16 forest communities, with representative participation of pure and mixed beech communities. The large number of complex ecosystems is present, with high degree of refugial features of habitats as well as a considerable number of endemic and rare plant and animal species, that all represent extraordinary values of Virgin Forest Reserve. In total, beech forest occupies about 45% of the total area of ​​the National Park and 70% of the total area under forest vegetation. The Moesian-Balkanic Beech Forest Region comprises a great diversity of beech forest communities. It occurs in Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, southern Serbia, Macedonia and Bulgaria. The eastern beech forest is considered a transitional zone to the Eucinical BFR and include an intermediate form between Fagus sylvatica and Fagus orientalis, which has been described as Fagus moesiaca (Panek, 2012). Phytogeographic and ecological specificity of area of the Biogradska gora and Virgin Forest Reserve, surrounded by high carbonate mountains of Dinara mountain system is its silicate composition. In this regard, Biogradska gora represents a unique refugium of frigorifile flora that is characteristic for the northern regions of boreal and high-mountains area of silicate Alps and other European mountains.

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Now, we are in the final part of the series and we are going to cover yet another country. Let us move to the bordering Serbia which has a lot of properties in the tentative list.Serbian component parts which are hereby proposed to be included in the World Heritage property of the „Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe” belong to protected areas in category of National Parks. These component parts represent three out of five Serbian National Parks:

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NP Fruška gora: The northernmost and the oldest National Park in Serbia, protected in 1960. It covers an area of 25.393 ha on Fruška gora Mt. (539 m a.s.l.), an Island Mountain in the great Pannonian Plain, located in the Vojvodina Province of Serbia, 78 km wide from east to west and 15 km wide from north to south. During the existence of the Pannonian Sea, this mountain was an island, and so, it represents a natural geological phenomenon of revealing almost all geological periods in its geological substrate, alongside a rich fossil fauna of the Pliocene Epoch. To the north, the mountain is bordered by the Danube River, while to the south it descends into the Syrmian lowlands. The National Park is almost completely covered by forest (90%), mainly Linden (Tilia sp.), oak (Quercus sp.) and Beech (Fagus sp.) monodominant and mixed forests, with over 20 forest associations described so far. Flora of NP Fruška gora counts around 1500 plant species, out of which at least 40 are strictly protected by Serbian national legislation, including over 30 species of Orchidaceae family. Its diverse fauna include 13 Amphibian species of and 11 Reptile species, out of which 14 are placed in the Threatened Categories of IUCN Red List. Out of 211 bird species, 130 nest in the Park. Mammal fauna is represented with close to 60 species.

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NP Tara: The westernmost National Park and protected area in Serbia in general, established in 1981, located on the border between Serbia and Bosnia and Hercegovina (Republic of Srpska entity), with the Drina River canyon as a natural state border. The National Park Tara covers Tara Mt. which lays on the right bank of the Drina River canyon, spreading on 24.991,82 ha of mostly heavily forested mountain landscape (>60%), intermitted with mountain rivers forming deep gorges. These mountains represent far eastern part of the Dinaric Alps mountain range, having limestone as its geological substrate, which is then crafted by the forces of nature in a vast variety of rock forms. Drina River canyon, 38 km long and over 1000m deep, surrounds this mountain Park forming its altitudinal amplitude of almost 1600 m a.s.l., with an average altitude of 1100-1300m a.s.l.. The geomorphological features and position of NP Tara influenced a unique, secluded and humid microclimate, which gave it its strong refugial character and resulted in a complex of microrefugia, rich in biodiversity of endemic and relict flora and fauna. Added to being located between Iliric and Moesian floristic provinces, this influenced a high floristic diversity of nearly 1200 species, 76 out of which are endemic, with many being stenoendemic and Tertiary relicts. Out of 40 forest plant communities, 4 are considered relict. Due to favorable abiotic conditions not having changed significantly in this area as glacial and interglacial epochs went by, since the Tertiary Epoch to date, NP Tara holds some of the oldest forest ecosystems in the Balkan Peninsula and in Europe, and its diverse habitats favored the high number of endemic and relict species present. Main tree species are Abies alba (43,3%), Fagus sylvatica ssp. moesiaca (30,2%) and Picea abies (15,3%), forming an Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum association which dominates the Park (85%). One tree species stands out as the most significant in this protected area: Serbian Spruce (Picea omorika), for which Tara Mt. represents locus classicus. This coniferous species is a Tertiary relict now endemic to the River Drina valley, discovered in 1875. by Serbian botanist Josif Pančić, who also discovered and described 47 more scientifically accepted plant taxons, many of which can be found in NP Tara. The high floristic value of NP Tara is reflected in 210 species being nationally protected and 115 found on the Red list of flora of Serbia, but also in its title as Important Plant Area (IPA). The fauna of NP Tara is also exceptionally diverse, with great number of relict and endemic species, the most famous being Pancic’s grasshopper (Pyrgomorphulla serbica Pancic), discovered in NP Tara by Josif Pančić in 1881. With 115 Butterfly species, 23 of them being on the Red list of butterflies of Serbia, NP Tara is considered Prime Butterfly Area (PBA). Other groups of fauna are also quite diverse: Ichthyofauna is represented with 28 species, Batrachofauna with 10, Herpetofauna with 9, Ornitofauna with 170, out of which 120 species nest in the Park (Important Bird Area – IBA) and Teriofauna with nearly 60 species. The plenitude of endemic species related to forest ecosystems provides strong evidence that the region around Tara NP was a refuge forest area during the Ice Age. NP Tara with the Drina River canyon was added in 2002. to the Serbian tentative list for inclusion on the natural World Heritage list. NP Tara, along with NP Drina in Bosnia and Hercegovina, is envisioned to be nominated for a transboundary Biosphere Reserve of UNESCO MaB Programme.

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Lonely house on the river Drina in Bajina Basta, Serbia

NP Kopaonik: With the exception of NP Šar Planina, which lays on the state border with Albania and is the southernmost and the highest mountain National Park in Serbia, NP Kopaonik would hold these titles. NP Kopaonik was established in 1981. in the central part of Kopaonik Mt. plateau. Said mountain is one of the highest mountains in Serbia, with many peeks around 1600m a.s.l. of height, the highest being 2017m a.s.l. Abundant in mountain rivers forming deep gorges, with dense hydrographic network of mountain springs and streams, large peat bogs, high-mountain meadows, pastures and old-growth forests, it is a mosaic layout of well-preserved ecosystems. This high-mountain National Park has an orderly vegetation belt changeover, representing almost all types of central Balkan high mountain ecosystems. Herbaceous vegetation takes 74% of 118 present plant associations, with forest vegetation taking 26%. High diversity of natural habitats resulted in high floristic heterogeneity and the diversity of 1603 plant species (155 species of Mosses), with 91 endemic (3 stenoendemic) and 82 subendemic species. This great number of endemic plants, with 12% of endemic high-mountain flora of Balkan Peninsula represented, sets this Park out as one of the hotspots of endemic Balkan flora (IPA). Out of a total area of 12.079,61 ha of NP Kopaonik, 58% is covered with forest. The best preserved, old-growth forests take almost 12% of the total area. Forests of NP Kopaonik, depending on the altitude, which ranges between 1000-2000m, form two main forest vegetation belts: Beech forest belt (1000-1550m a.s.l.), with Fagetum montanum as the main association, forming mostly on silicate and serpentinite substrate, but also on carbonate substrate, and Spruce forest belt (1550-2000m a.s.l.) forming mainly on granite substrate (Picetum excelsae). Between these two main belts, with addition of Silver Fir (Abies alba), a mixed forest of Beech, Fir and Spruce frequently forms (Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum, Abieti-Fagetum, Piceto-Abietum). Beech forests are present even in the Spruce forest belt, forming a forest association Fagetum subalpinum, in some places with Mountain Maple (Acer heldreichii), a Tertiary relict endemic to the Balkan Peninsula. This endemo-relict tree species was preserved in homeostatic habitats of deep river gorges in NP Kopaonik, along with a few others (Taxus baccata). Faunistic diversity is expressed in 138 Butterfly species (PBA), 210 Bird species, with 115 nesting in the Park (IBA), 6 Amphibian species, 8 Reptile species and 35 Mammal species.

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Proposed component parts include:

  1. Fruška gora cluster (Level I Protection Regime localities „Papratski do“ and „Ravne“ of NP „Fruška gora”): Located close together on the northern slopes on Fruška gora Mt. these ancient Beech forests grow on deep, moist soil, the result of several springs and streams nearby and a dense canopy complexion reducing evaporation. Papratski do was first protected as a Strict Nature Reserve in 1955, later becoming Level I Protection Regime locality of National Park Fruška gora. The old growth characteristics of this Beech forest are result of the strict protection regime being in place for more than half a century. Beech here forms pure stands (Fagetum submontanum), but in some parts it forms mixed forest with Linden (Tilio-Fagetum). Up until recently, this forest was one of last nesting places of Eastern Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca) in Serbia, the species that is on global scale considered vulnerable (IUCN Red List), but is endangered in Europe, with currently only one nesting pair left in Serbia. Papratski do locality with 71,35 ha of size covers altitudinal range between 400m and 460 m a.s.l., as for Ravne locality this range is between 350m and 450 m a.s.l. Ravne with 95,69 ha of size is a Level I Protection Regime locality of NP Fruška gora since 2004. (before was a part of Level II Protection Regime) and is known for its well-preserved Beech and Linden forest (Tilio-Fagetum), that take up the largest part of the locality, in some parts mixed with Quercus petraea (Querco-Fagetum) and Ostrya carpinifolia (Querco-Carpinetum). Buffer zone would be formed out of the forested area of Level II Protection Regime locality „Čortanovačka šuma” which surrounds both core component parts.
  2. Level I Protection Regime locality „Zvezda“ of NP „Тara“: This locality is the largest Level I Protection Regime locality of NP „Тara“, covering the right slopes of the Drina River canyon of western and northwestern exposition and the adjacent mountain landscape called Zvezda. The size of this locality is 2030,18 ha, with the altitude ranging between 220m and 1440m a.s.l. Geological substrate is limestone on which Rendzina and terra fusca soils are formed. This locality was formally first protected in the IXX century, when it was excluded from any future exploitation in all forestry planning documents, as a measure of erosion prevention. Inaccessibility of these forests has made them unexploitable beforehand, so it is safe to say that these are virgin forests, dating far back in past epochs of natural history. Zvezda locality was first nationally protected part of NP Tara, as it was established as a Strict Nature Reserve in 1971. for its exceptionally preserved wilderness, unique landscape qualities and being the natural habitat of endemo-relict species Picea omorikaIlex aquifolium and Taxus baccata, but also of the brown bear (Ursus arctos)and chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra). The canyon slopes have a very steep inclination of over 35°, which is preferred habitat condition of Picea omorika and Pinus nigra, growing on the higher parts of the slopes, along with Fir, Spruce and Beech. On the slopes, Beech inhabits gullies of the rugged slopes, where deeper soils are formed, leaving the remaining rocky terrain to Ostrya carpinifolia and Fraxinus ornus (Fraxineto-Carpinetum). On the adjacent mountain terrain with an inclination of 20-30° Fagetum montanum and Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum forest associations are formed, with dominance of Beech. On the top of the canyon slopes, where Picea omorika population is numerous, the forest association Omorikae-Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum mixtum is formed.
  3. Level I Protection Regime locality „Klisura Rače“ of NP „Тara“: Located on the far eastern part of NP Tara, the Rača River gorge (“klisura” meaning “gorge” in Serbian) represents one of the deep river gorges in NP Tara, forming around the spring which creates the mountain river called Rača and following its course up until thermal spring called Lađevac. From this point on, the Rača River forms a valley, where the Serbian orthodox monastery Rača (XIII c.) is located. Geological substrate is limestone. On the gorge and valley sides of Rača River, an old-growth Beech forest is formed. Beech trees of 35m in height and with the trunks over 1m wide can be found on the valley sides (Fagetum submontanum), while upon entering a gorge, a mixed Beech forest with Walnut (Juglans regia) is found, forming an relict association Fagetum montanum juglandetosum in the lowest levels of the gorge, by the river. Also present are the forest associations Musco-Alnetum glutinosaeOstryo-Pinetum nigrae and Aceri-Osryo-Fagetum, the latter also being of relict character, forming on the lower parts of the gorge and having Walnut as an accompanying species. The altitudinal range is between 600m and 1000m a.s.l., inclination ranges between 15° and 35° and geological substrate is limestone. The size of this locality is 301,80 ha. For the most part, it is surrounded by Level II Protection Regime, but also with Level III Protection Regime. North-eastern border of the Locality is at the same time border of the National Park. Since it is not a natural border, a part of the Locality area would be excluded from the core zone to form a sufficient buffer zone of the component.
  4. Level I Protection Regime locality „Kozije stene“ of NP Kopaonik”: Located on the westernmost part of NP Kopaonik, this locality of strong refugial character covers the left slopes of the Samokovska River gorge, and also Kozije stene reef, Kukavica peek and east slopes of Jadovnik hill. It has a very diverse geological substrate of mostly metamorphic rocks: Paleozoic serpentinites, granitoides, Mesozoic kornites and marble. Forest vegetation is formed on shallow and medium deep Dystric Cambisols. At the lowest elevations a Beech forest forms (Fagetum submontanum, Fagetum montanum), with Quercus petraea and Ostrya carpinifolia as accompanying species, above which a mixed Fir and Beech forest is formed (Seslerio-Abieti-Fagetum). In some higher parts of the gorge this forest type transforms with the presence of Spruce (Picea abies) into Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum forest, followed by the Fir and Spruce association Piceo-Abietetum serpentinicum. Spruce dominates highest elevations where it forms a relict forest association Erico-Piceto-Abietum in which Erica carnea and Vaccinium myrtillus dominate the ground level vegetation. In this forest association a Tertiary relict species, Daphne blagayana, can be found. Endemic plant taxons present in this locality are: Edraianthus jugoslavicus, Stachys scardica, Cerastium decalvans, Silene parnassica serbicaLinum tauricum ssp. serbicum, Cardamine pancicii, Saxifraga adsendens ssp. blavi, Festuca panciciana, Thymus jankae, Aquillegia blecicii, Cerastium moesiacum, Viola macedonica and Campanula abietina. Тhe total number of plant species found in Kozije stene locality is 132. The size of this locality is 485,24 ha and its western border is also the National Park border, spreading along the summit of Jadovnik hill and forming a natural border. Buffer zone can be formed out of surrounding Level II and III Protection Regimes.
  5. Duboka i Brzećka reka cluster (Level I Protection Regime localities „Metođe”, „Jelak“ and „Duboka“ of NP Kopaonik): This cluster is located on the far eastern part of the Kopaonik National Park. Locality „Metođe” borders with locality „Jelak“, together covering the right side of the Brzećka River gorge in its length. „Duboka“ locality is located about 1 km (air length) to the south, covering the left side of the Duboka River gorge. On all three localities a mixed Beech forest grows, with Mountain Maple (Acer heldreichii) as an accompanying species. Mountain Maple is a glacial relict species endemic to the Balkan Peninsula. Mutual buffer zone can be formed out of surrounding Level II and III Protection Regimes.

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In Metođe locality the altitude ranges between 1190m and 1840m a.s.l., with an inclination of 20-30° for the most part and of over 45° in some parts. Geological substrate is formed out of metamorphic rocks like greenschist and marbleized limestone, with granitoides in some parts. The complex geomorphology and varying microclimate conditions resulted in highly diverse vegetation and flora, with numerous rare and relict species, due to the homeostatic conditions of the gorge. On the steep cliffs, rock vegetation communities develop and on the gentler parts, covered with shallow to medium deep Dystric Cambisol soil, forest vegetation develops. Beech dominates this locality and for the most part it is covered with a mixed Beech, Fir and Spruce forest (Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum), with individual trees going up to 30m in height and having trunks up to 1,5m wide. Scattered in this forest grows Mountain Maple (Acer heldreichii). Lower elevations are covered with Fagetum montanum Beech forest. In some higher elevated areas of this locality the following forest associations are formed: Piceto-Abietum, Erico-Piceto-Abietum, Fagetum subalpinum piceetosum, Picetum subalpinum, some with different varieties, depending on the ground floor flora, out of which a Tertiary relict species, Daphne blagayana, should be mentioned. On the area of 117 ha, 10 different forest associations are found and even higher number of rock vegetation associations. Endemic plant species found here include: Alyssum corymbosum, Chamaecytisus jankae, Stachys alpina var. bosniaca, Chamaecytisus tommasinii, Cerastium moesiacum, Edraianthus jugoslavicus subsp. subalpinus, Silene sendtneri, Cicerbita pancicii and Hesperis dinarica among many others which are endemic and/or relict, rare or threatened. Total number of plant species found in Metođe locality is 137.

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Jelak locality follows Metođe locality on the right side of the Brzećka River gorge, covering forested area of the altitudinal range between 1000-1490m a.s.l. The geological substrate here is limestone, marl and sandstone, with a tinge of many different metamorfic rocks. Soil types are Podzol and Dystric Cambisol. The lowest elevations are covered with Beech forest (Fagetum montanum), above which lays a mixed Beech and Fir forest (Abieti-Fagetum), where the Fir dominates. In these forests Mountain Maple (Acer heldreichii) is an accompanying species, along with Betula verocosa and Acer pseudoplatanus. In one part of this locality a relict forest association Taxo-Abietum is formed, with Taxus baccata and Abies alba as the main edificatory species. In Jelak locality, over 50 plant species are documented, which is quite diverse considering its small size of 60,39 ha.With the size of 144,03ha Duboka locality covers the left side of the Duboka River gorge, with altitudes ranging between 1020m and 1780m a.s.l. The geological substrate is mainly limestone and Beech forest dominates this locality. On the more secluded parts of the highest elevations of the gorge, Picea abies subsp. subalpine, Juniperus sibirica, Vaccinium myrtillus and Vaccinium uliginosum form the following associations: Piceo subalpinae-Vaccinio-Juniperetum, Piceetm subalpinum myrtilletosum, Vaccinio-Juniperetum, Vaccinietum myrtilli. Deeper down the gorge, several different Beech, Fir and Spruce forest associations are formed (Picetum fagetosum subalpinae, Fagetum subalpinum inferiorum piceetosum, Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum, Fago-Abietum, Piceo-Abietum), followed by Beech forest associations Fagetum montanum, Luzulo-Fagetum, Seslerio-Fagetum and Ostryo-Seslerio-Fagetum and a relict Beech and Mountain Maple forest association Aceri heldredichii-Fagetum subalpinum. The total number of plant species found here is 164.

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 All Serbian component parts are in the whole of their territory protected under Level I Protection Regime of protected areas in the category of National Parks, the highest protection regime in Serbian national legislation, often called the Strict Protection, which prohibits any kind of human activities, except for scientific research and monitoring of natural processes, controlled visits for educational, recreational and cultural purposes. This regime has been in place for an average of five decades, resulting in undisturbed development of the forests, with all development phases of the Beech forest development process having been represented. With the exception of NP Fruška gora, all other components are situated in and around river gorges, giving them a long-lasting protection against environmental change and disturbances, but also against negative anthropogenic influence. In all component parts the Beech accounts for a significant part of forested area, forming many different forest associations with presence of endemic and relict species, which emphasizes the refugial character of the Balkan Peninsula and in particular these selected localities. The species composition in the proposed components is demonstrating the development patterns of Beech forest ecosystems characteristic for this part of Europe. The cluster component part in NP Fruška gora represents the only remaining ancient Beech forests of the Pannonic Beech Forest Region, as in this region the Beech forests are very rare because of the unfavorable climate conditions for their development. In the Pannonian Plain, an island mountain with the sufficient humidity and favorable climate provided by its geographic position and geomorphologic features, supported the existence of these ancient Beech forests. The inclusion of this component part in the existing WH site would contribute a more complete representation of all Beech Forest Regions in Europe. For all other proposed component parts the main additional value is represented in the endemic and relict species and forest plant communities found in these Beech forests, which are for the most part mixed forests of Beech and coniferous species. In Zvezda locality of NP Tara an endemo-relict species of coniferous trees is present (Picea omorika) with a relict forest association Omorikae-Piceto-Abieti-Fagetum mixtum. In Rača locality of NP Tara a relict Fagetum montanum juglandetosum forms. For NP Kopaonik being one of the hotspots of endemic high-mountain Balkan flora, numerous endemic and relict herbaceous plant species are represented in the selected Level I Protection Regime localities, along with the diverse geological substrate. In Duboka i Brzećka reka cluster of NP Kopaonik Acer heldreichii, a glacial relict endemic to the Balkan Peninsula, is present, as well as Taxus baccata, forming a relict forest association Taxo-Abietum.

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Together with the already inscribed component parts in 12 European States Parties the component parts of this extension will represent an outstanding example of relatively undisturbed, complex temperate forests and exhibit a wide spectrum of comprehensive ecological patterns and processes of pure and mixed stands of European beech across a variety of environmental conditions. They contain an invaluable genetic reservoir of beech and many species, which are associated with and dependent on these forest habitats.

The property is indispensable for the understanding of the history and evolution of the genus Fagus which, given its wide distribution in the Northern Hemisphere and its ecological importance, is globally significant. These largely undisturbed, complex temperate forests exhibit comprehensive ecological patterns and processes of pure and mixed stands of European beech across a variety of environmental gradients, such as climatic and geological conditions, throughout much of the European beech forest range. Forests are included from all altitudinal zones from the coast up to the forest line in the mountains and, furthermore, include the best remaining examples from the range limits of the European beech forest. Beech is one of the most important features in the Temperate Broadleaf Forest Biome and represents an outstanding example of the re-colonization and development of terrestrial ecosystems and communities since the last Ice Age. The continuing northern and westward expansion of beech from its original glacial refuge areas in the eastern and southern parts of Europe can be tracked along natural corridors and stepping stones spanning the continent. The dominance of beech across extensive areas of Europe is a living testimony of the tree’s genetic adaptability, a process which is still ongoing. The selected component parts represent the diversity found across Europe in terms of different climatic and geological conditions and altitudinal zones. Inclusion of these components representing the variability of European beech forest ecosystems across these different environmental conditions contributes to the integrity of the property as a whole in terms of the full representation of the ecological processes that convey the Outstanding Universal Value of the property. However, each component part also needs to demonstrate integrity at the local level by representing the full suite of natural forest development processes in its particular geographical and ecological setting within the series. All component parts are of sufficient size (> 50 ha) to maintain such natural processes necessary for their long-term ecological viability.

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All component parts have buffer zones of various configurations including surrounding protected areas (national parks, nature parks, biosphere reserves and others). These buffer zones will be regularly reviewed to ensure protection under changing environmental conditions such as climate change. The boundaries of buffer zones are, where possible, aligned with existing protected area boundaries. Special emphasis was given during the zonation of the new component parts to ensure effective ecological connectivity between beech forests and the surrounding complementary habitats to allow natural development and adaptation to environmental change. While the history of distribution and expansion of beech across Europe demonstrates an outstanding example of the re-colonization and development of terrestrial ecosystems since the last Ice Age, more recent changes in the distribution pattern of beech across Europe relate to direct influences of human disturbance and the more complex effects of anthropogenically induced climate change. To effectively protect the components of the property from negative influence, a comprehensive analysis of threats has been undertaken. In the selection process of suitable primeval and ancient Beech forests in Europe, a classification system defining Beech Forest Regions (BFR) in Europe has been developed. Each BFR is characterized by its specific climatic and floristic situation and showing an individual history of postglacial Beech forest development differing in time of first Beech arrival and the different genetic exotypes of Beech, as Beech was re-colonising Europe after the last ice-age from different refuge areas. It is considered that a finite serial transnational European nomination will include candidates from all BFR. Therefore, the best suitable Beech forest sites in each BFR have been selected to represent the different ecotypes and postglacial development processes in a most representative way. Each component part within one BFR brings specific aspects and significantly adds additional value to the series as a whole.

 

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The World Heritage Beech Forests Conference was held in Vienna, Austria on 23 July 2018. Eighty-four participants from 15 States Parties came to discuss the challenges and future of the UNESCO World Heritage “Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe”. The conference supported the upstream process and enabled direct communication with UNESCO and IUCN as well as among States Parties, and was therefore a unique possibility to communicate needs, existing tools and new options directly among all parties concerned. In three sessions Mechtild Rössler, Director of the UNESCO World Heritage Centre, along with Mizuki Murai (IUCN), Pierre Ibisch (Eberswalde University of Sustainable Development), Alfredo Di Filippo (Università della Tuscia), Marian Gic (SOPSR) and Patrick Huvenne (Agency for Nature and Forests) together with Kris Vandekerkhove (Research Institute for Nature and Forests), presented the complexity of this serial UNESCO World Heritage site, with its 78 component parts in more than 40 protected areas across 12 European countries.

That is all about the Beech Forests. The additions to the tentative list were made in 2018 and 2019. It is yet to be determined if there are any further beech forests to be added to the tentative list. This year’s session of the World Heritage Committee is still an uncertainty considering the fact that it is set to be held in Fuzhou, China. Most likely, the committee will postpone the session or will be hosted by a different city. World Heritage Day is near and I’m still on what should I post special for this year eventhough most countries are in lockdown. On the previous two occasions since the inception of this blog, I have posted about the Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram. Of course, there are a few remaining in that set, but I’m planning to go for something different. Maybe, we can talk about the previously concluded session of the World Heritage Committee. The Committee always chooses its host cities in a particular manner which I like very much. Let us see which city will get the nod next year. Probably, the United States can go for a bid. Maybe, this year’s session can be a web conference too considering safety measures.

Thus, we have covered an exciting and much anticipated series which I was looking forward to compose since the inscription of the first sites in 2007. There are lots of transboundary properties in Europe which we’ll cover soon. How about the next series being the sites located on the ancient Silk Road or a chain of Central Asian or Arab monuments? Or shall we explore more of Le Corbusier’s architecture? Please put your valuable suggestions in the comment box. United States is suffering the worst due to Coronavirus but still hasn’t taken any precautions to prevent people from getting infected. President Trump, I salute your responsible attitude. Now, I really admire the Indian Prime Minister and Kerala Chief Minister for the efforts they take to reduce the strength of the outbreak in the country. There is a poison which can beat the virus. It is nothing than that girl’s blood. Sorry for insulting you like this, Swathi. But, I have no other choice to keep on hating you otherwise I will keep loving you and then again I have to suffer the loss. In the next post, I’m planning to cover yet another transboundary property eventhough I haven’t finalised whether to go with that idea or return to India. ” My story and my revenge is my privacy.” That’s what some serial killers say. But, I won’t say like that. ” Expect the next blow anytime”. You and Manu will never live together as long as the fire inside me burns. Thank you for all your support and views even during this critical situation. Please do take your own time to complete reading the series. If you want to read in a more understandable manner, you can check the UNESCO World Heritage Centre and type the Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests in the Carpathians and other regions of Europe. I appreciate the patience you have given to complete reading these posts. Now, by breathing some fresh air, let us relax in the beech forests with only nature for company.

 

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